Yooper John's SKS - Battle rifle of many nations

SECTION  13:  In this section I will try to show the differences between the same part from different arsenals, years and countries. The only purpose of this page is to help make the collector aware that differences do occur and about anything could be possible. These are ALL from my personal observations and not from any books.

SKS TRIGGER HOUSINGS

The various pictures below show the Trigger Assembly exploded from various makes and models of SKS's. The commercial SKS model D and M could have either ones configuration depending on when they were converted or made. Currently these are the only differences I have noticed. Some are only cosmetic, some have different stampings, some are shaped slightly different and some are just plain different.  NOTE: 1953 Russian SKS's seem to have both the early and late housings.  Late year rebuilds along with early year rebuilds may use either Russian type of trigger housing.

 

 

 

1. Milled - Early Russian 1949-1953.

2. Milled - Late Russian 1953-1955/8, Early Chinese 1956-1980, Romanian, Albanian, East German, Yugoslavian, North Korean.  

3. Stamped - Late Chinese 1970's-1990's.  

4. Stamped - Late Chinese 1970's-1990's.

5. "D" model using AK magazines. Note the clip release.  May vary in design.

6. "M" model using AK magazines. Note the clip release.  May vary in design.

 

1. Milled Early Russian 1949-1953 - Note flat base.

2. Milled - Late Russian 1953-1955/8, Early Chinese 1956-1980, Romanian, Albanian, East German, Yugoslavian, North Korean - Note the raised hump.

3.  Stamped - Late Chinese 1970's-1990's - Note the seam between trigger guard and housing bottom.

 

 

 

Stamped - Late Chinese 1970's-1990's - Note the seam between trigger guard and housing bottom. 

 

 

1. Milled Early Russian 1949-1953 

2. Milled - Late Russian 1953-1955/8, Early Chinese 1956-1980, Romanian, Albanian, East German, Yugoslavian, North Korean. 

3.  Stamped - Late Chinese 1970's-1990's - Note the lack of grooves on safety lever and absence of milling marks at rear of housing.

 

 

The Early Russian 1949-1953 assemblies did not use a Trigger Arm Mount, also note elongated hole below trigger.  

All other countries used the "Late Milled Housing" and China also used the "Late Stamped Housing".

 

 

       

 

The Early Russian 1949-1953 assemblies used a different Sear and Spring arrangement.

Russian 1952-1955/6 and all other countries used the "Late Trigger Housing" arrangement.

 

 

Note the differences in the sear block and the clip release mechanism for the removable AK style magazine. Your M or D could be of either variety. These just show the two I have examined.

 

Sear - Sear Spring - Magazine Catch. Sears are slightly different but perform the same function.

 

Note the modification made for the AK style magazine.  Shown is top view on left and bottom view on right.

 

Yugoslavian trigger group modified to accept AK magazines

 

Late Chinese with a spot welded trigger guard.

 

 

Reworking an SKS Trigger, thanks to Fragger

 


 

 

First thing I did was order a new sear from Paul's Guns-The SKS Man :>) (no kidding) 
Next remove the hammer, sear retaining pin, spring, and mag. catch. 
This is going to be tough to explain. The sear has a slot cut on either side that it rides back and forth on. On the frame is a rail / rib that mates into this slot. At the end of the rail / rib is a stop on both sides that will stop the reward travel of the sear. On the sear, at the end of the slot, is an angle that mates with this stop. If you take material off of this angle, BUT still maintain the angle, the sear will move closer to the trigger bar. Moving the sear closer to the trigger bar lessens the first stage length of pull. You DON'T want it to touch the trigger bar. I didn't measure the distance but would guesstimate it to be at least .050 gap between the contact points of the trigger bar and the sear. By the way point that the trigger bar contacts the sear is just above the under cut on the sear. Now that the sear is in a closer relationship with the trigger bar you'll have to remove metal off of the end of the sear that slides under the hammer. NOT the top of the sear that contacts the ''catch'' of the hammer, but the end. I put the hammer in without the spring and put pressure on it as if it was under tension, slid the sear in and would take a little at a time off of the back until the sear would come back into contact with the stop on the rail / rib. Note: when removing metal off of the back of the sear, DON'T remove it off of the area that contacts the trigger bar or you'll be back at step one. Also if too much is taken off of the back the trigger will activate the release of the hammer at a whisper. Take a little off...release the hammer by using the trigger. 
(Disclaimer)
EVERYONE please note that I have close to 30 years backround in a machine shop i.e. milling machines, lathes, surface grinding, etc. etc. Please don't try this unless you have a good bit of knowledge. I don't want to hear about it on the 6: 00 news AND it would give the anti's one more bullet in their stripper clip. Fragger and Survivor can not be held liable if you mess up, you work on the trigger group at your own risk.
 

 

Go to SKS page 14 more info on Receiver Differences.

 

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YooperJ
Started in 1999 by [Yooper John's]. All rights reserved.
Revised: 04 Mar 2016 12:54:28 -0600 .